FishingGeek - All Fishing Articles

Gulf Grouper closures

Wed, 13 Feb 2008 19:49:00 -0400

Red grouper, Gag Grouper, and Black Grouper harvests will be prohibited in the Gulf of Mexico federal waters from February 15 until March 15. This closing applies to both the recreational and commercial harvest of these fish. Federal waters extend beyond 9 nautical miles offshore of Florida in the Gulf.

Commercial harvest of these fish in Gulf stat waters (inside the 9 nautical mile line) is also prohibited during this period. However, the recreated harvest will still be allowed in Gulf state waters, according to the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission, under the existing bag and size limits.

For further information, contact Lee Schlesinger (850-487-0554) at the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission.

Snook Season Closes in Florida

Thu, 29 Nov 2007 13:33:00 -0400

In the interest of protecting Florida's snook population, the Florida Fish and Wildlife Commission (FWC) regulations state that snook harvest will be closed in the upcoming month.

Starting December 1, 2007, snook harvest in Florida's Gulf of Mexico, Everglades National Park and Monroe County, and will remain closed until March 1, 2008. For all other Florida waters, snook harvest closes December 15, 2007 and will remain closed until February 1, 2008.

Be sure to keep up to date with your state's fishing regulations.

Temporary No-Harvest on Black Bass at Rodman Reservoir

Mon, 26 Nov 2007 10:17:00 -0400

Starting Dec. 1, 2007, The Florida Fish and Wildlife Commission will temporarily enact the "no-harvest" rule on all black bass caught from Rodman Reservoir in both Putnam and Marion counties. The temporary restriction comes during the highly anticipated drawdown which leaves the bass are more concentrated.

The "no-harvest" rule will go into effect 12:01a Dec. 1, 2007 and ends 12:01a Apr. 2008. This is the current schedule for this restriction, however, the rule could be recinded if the current conditions change.

With a "no-harvest" rule in effect, all black bass caught at Rodmans Reservoir must immediately be released back into the water. This means, you cannot put them in a livewell and/or stringer with the intention of later returning it back to the water.

These new restrictions comes during the Rodman Reservoir Drawdown Project which is proposed to begin from November 2007 through March 2008. The drawdown is an anticipated event for many fisherman. With water levels are lowered, resulting in fish in a more concentrated area. With Rodman Reservoir labeled as one of the top ten fishing lakes in the nation, you can expect a lot of fisherman to be out fishing within the next couple of weeks.

For more information about the new regulations, refer to the Florida Fish and Wildlife Commissions' website.

Rodman Reservoir Drawdown Project

Mon, 26 Nov 2007 10:14:00 -0400

There is no arguing that fact that Rodmans Reservoir is a sportsman paradise. There is plenty to do and see, from camping to world class fishing. However, its imperative that the ecological health of the reservoir is maintained to help improve recreational activities for many years to come.

To help mainain the ecological health of Rodmans Reservoir, the Department of Environmental Protection’s Office of Greenways and Trails (OGT) will periodically raise and/or lower water levels of the dam.

The drawdown has several environmental benefits. By raising/lowering the water levels, the surrounding acres of herbaceous plants are flooded, providing feeding gounds for waterfowl during the October/November months. Floating plants such as, hyacinths and pennyworts, will also be naturally "cleaned up" by the drawdown project.

There are many recreational benefits as well. Waterfowl and fish populations remain healthy which in-turn provides excellent bird watching and fishing opportunities. The area also includes hiking and riding trails near the Ocala National Forest and a beautiful campground with 39 campsites.

The Current 2007/2008 proppsed schedule is:

Proposed Fluctuation Schedule for 2007 - 2008

2007 October 1 - November 1 - begin surcharge to 20.0 feet NGVD
November 1 – November 15 - Lower from 20.0 to 18.0 feet NGVD
November 16 – begin formal drawdown phases from 18.0 feet NGVD
December 15 – arrive at 11.0 feet NGVD, dependent on inflow 2008
December 15 – March 1 – maintain water level at approximately 11.0 feet NGVD
March 1 - begin refill to 18.0 feet NGVD
By April 15 - arrive at 20.0 feet NGVD, dependent on inflows
By April 25 - bring level to ± 18.0 feet NGVD, dependent on conditions

Propsed Limits for Lake Okeechobee

Mon, 22 Oct 2007 09:41:00 -0400

A recent proposal by the Fish and Wildlife Commission (FWC) has been made to two freshwater species on Lake Okeechobee. According the the FWC, the numbers of smaller Largemouth Bass and Black Crappie have decrease over the years.

With the recent samplings, the FWC is proposing to replace the existing 13-18 inch limit to a minimum size limit of 18 inches. This new change mean that anglers will not be allowed to take a largemouth bass less than 18 inches from Lake Okeechobee.

A limit may also be placed Black Crappie (speckled perch) by placing a 10 inch minimum size limit.

The FWC will be holding a two public meetings to explain the recent proposal and hear opinions from the pubilc. The first meeting is scheduled for Wednesday, Nov. 14 at 1830 at the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers office in Clewiston Florida. The Second meeting will be hled at the Okeechobee Civic Center on Thursday, Nov. 15 at 1830. If you would like to attend or get more information regarding this subject, visit the Florida Fish and Wildlife Commission website.

Trim up your spinnerbait skirt

Wed, 03 Oct 2007 15:24:00 -0400

If you are fishing a spinnerbait and finding that you are missing almost half of the strikes, you may need to lift your skirt a little. No, not that. I'm talking about the skirt on your spinnerbaits.

If the bass are hitting short on your spinnerbait, and you're unable to make a good hookset, try making the spinnerbait look a little smaller. By reducing the size of your bait, you give the bait a smaller look.

Don't worry though, trimming the skirt of the spinnerbait will not affect the action of the lure.

Increase in Recreational Licenses

Fri, 28 Sep 2007 14:40:00 -0400

Starting October 1, the Florida Fish and Wildlife Commission (FWC) will be increasing all recreational fishing (saltwater and frestwater) and hunting licensing fees.

It has been a few years since the last increase, 1989 (fishing) and 1979 (hunting), but with rising costs of general resources, law enforcement, and conservation programs, the increase has been needed for a while. The 07/08 fiscal revenues are down and with that, many programs are in danger of becoming extinct. One that certainly stands out is the reduction in law enforcement and restoration projects. However, according to the FWC, within a four year period, the license fee increase is expected to bring in a total of 10 million. This 10 million dollars is expected to offset a 12.5 million deficit by 2010.

Although there is an initial sting of a price increase, we can be assured that the monies collected from licensing fees will be used to increase conservation awareness and pay our law enforcement officers what they deserve.

Current and New Costs (effective October 1, 2007)

Florida Residents Type of License	Old Fee	New Fee
Annual freshwater fishing	$13.50	$17.00
Annual saltwater fishing	$13.50	$17.00
Annual hunting	$12.50	$17.00
Annual combo: Hunting, freshwater fishing	$23.50	$32.50
Annual combo: Fresh/saltwater fishing	$25.50	$32.50
Annual combo: Hunting, fresh/saltwater fishing	$35.50	$48.00
Annual sportsman’s	$72.50	$80.50
Annual gold sportsman’s	$88.50	$100.00
5-year freshwater fishing	$61.50	$79.00
5-year saltwater fishing	$61.50	$79.00
5-year hunting	$56.50	$79.00

Nonresidents Type of License	Old Fee	New Fee
3-day freshwater fishing	N/A	$17.00
7-day freshwater fishing	$16.50	$30.00
3-day saltwater fishing	$6.50	$17.00
7-day saltwater fishing	$16.50	$30.00
Annual freshwater fishing	$31.50	$47.00
Annual saltwater fishing	$31.50	$47.00

Emergency Surgery on Soft Plastics

Tue, 25 Sep 2007 11:07:00 -0400

Once you've found your "go to" worm, it's really hurts to see it get tattered and torn. with their abrasive mouths and aggressive behavior, with hooking up on a fish, you can guarantee your senko will be ruined. Over time, replacing ripped Gary Yamamoto Senkos can be costly. Aside from pouring your on plastic, how can an angler salvage their fishing worms? The answer comes with emergency surgery.

Here is a list of items that are needed for the repair:

A lighter
Knives,Multi-Tool, Scissors
Water

To actually repair your fishing lures, use the following steps:

Make a cut at the top and bottom of the rip in the worm
With your lighter, heat up the two ends of the worm until the plastic starts to melt. Don't melt too much, but just enough to make the two ends stick together.
Once the reconstructive surgery is complete, dip the worm in cool water. Placing the worm in cool water will harden the plastic and set the worm.

It may seem cheap to try and salvage your soft plastic worms or Gary Yamamoto Senkos, but in reality, we're just being resourceful. There is no sense in wasting money on fishing lures if you don't have to. Besides, the real goal is staying on the water as long as possible. Hope these tips help!

Removing those tags

Thu, 13 Sep 2007 22:32:00 -0400

After tying your line, its a good idea to clean up your knot. By using finger nail clippers, you can easily snip the tag ends of your fishing line as close to the knot as possible. We have found, however, that using finger nail clippers on braided line is almost useless. To cut braided fishing line, a pair of cuticle clippers or small scissors will work.

You could always use your teeth, but you could end up damaging them. A .99 cent pair of nail clippers are cheaper than a trip to the dentist.

Boat Trailer Safety Tips

Mon, 10 Sep 2007 19:39:00 -0400

Routine maintenance on your boat trailer can keep you safe on the road more and help avoid those unfortunate times when you find yourself stuck on the side of the road. Here are a few safety tips to consider to ensure the safe towing of your boat.

Make sure all items such as, coolers, fishing poles, gas tanks, etc. inside the boat are properly secured
Remove or secure all GPS units, depth finders, compasses
Have a spare of all items needed to maintain or repair your trailer. Always have a spare tire with you. With the spare tire, you should also have the proper tools to change the tire as well. Keep the greasegun and grease close by, to keep the bearings lubricated
Spare trailer lightbulbs
A flashlight will help in situations where it is dark outside.
Stop every 50-100 miles to check air pressure in the tires and grease your bearings.
Check that straps and that the coupler is attached. Make sure safety chains are criss-crossed underneath the tounge. If the trailer ball or coupler were to fail, the safety chains will prevent the tounge from hitting the road.
Tire blowouts can ruin ones day. Make sure that all tires are properly inflated to the recommended PSI on the tire
Ensure that all lugnuts are tight
Trailer the boat with the boat cover off. Most of the time, it will fly off.

Remember these tips the next time you take the boat out. You'll be glad that you did.

Keep cool in the summer

Sun, 09 Sep 2007 19:29:00 -0400

In the heat of the summer, it's alway a good idea to cool hydrated. If you're going out fishing, make sure you bring plenty of water or gatorade to keep you hydrated during the day.

Here's something to try, the next time you are planning to go fishing. Take an empty bottle (milk jug, coke bottle, etc) and fill it 3/4 full with water. Place the bottles in the freezer. The next day, these water bottles will take hours to warm.

Canoe and Kayak Regulations

Thu, 06 Sep 2007 20:35:00 -0400

It is important to remember that safety is always the concern when we talk about boating. That is why we have fishing and boating regulations in place throughout the United States. When it comes to kayaks and canoes, you think that the regulations do not apply. However, this is not the case. Kayakers and canoers also have minimum requirements that must be met to remain safe on the water. In Florida, a non-motor powered vessel less than 16 foot does not have to be registered or titled. However, if the vessel is greater than 16 foot, then it will need to be titled.

These minimum requirements are:

Type 3 personal floatation devices (PFDs) must be onboard or worn
Before sunrise and sunset, a white light must be present to avoid collision with other marine craft
Sound producing device
and as always, your fishing license is required

Optional safety items include:

Creating a float plan
Flares
A first aid kit
GPS or VHF radio
Anchor
Pump for bailing water

The "rules of the road" also apply when boating in any craft. You are responsible for your wake. Let's keep fishing enjoyable for everyone.

As always, you are responsible for knowing the rules and regulations for your own state. Keep informed and keep fishing.

New Snook Season, New Rules

Tue, 28 Aug 2007 08:37:00 -0400

Snook season is here again with some important changes. Starting September 1, several new snook regulations will be in effect. These rule changes are necassary for Florida's Fish and Wildlife Commission to achieve management goals and preserve the fisheries future.
Some of the new regulations include:

Slot limits of 28-32 inches in Atlantic and 28-33 inches in Florida's Gulf
One fish per person bag limit

Licensed saltwater anglers must purchase a $2 permit in order to harvest snook.
The snook season closes on December 1 for Gulf, Everglades, and Monroe county and will reopen again on March 1. In the Atlantic region, the season closes on December 15 and reopens February 1.

Class #9 of the Fish and Wildlife Commission

Thu, 23 Aug 2007 08:41:00 -0400

The Florida Fish and Wildlife Commission (FWC) is a state agency that is dedicated to preserving Florida’s natural resources. Although FWC officers have the authority to enforce all state laws, their main purpose is to ensure that the regulations to protect the waters and forests of Florida are adhered to. If you have ever been fishing or hunting in Florida, you have more than likely seen an FWC officer patrolling the areas making sure that licenses are current and that you are respecting the natural habitat for a variety of animals.

The 9^th Law Enforcement Officer Recruit Class was commissioned as officers for FWC on August 16, 2007, in Tallahassee, FL. There were 34 determined recruits that survived intense physical and academic training within 29 weeks to receive this honor. These men and women came from diverse backgrounds, but all maintained their desire to “patrol, protect, and preserve”, as the FWC motto goes. They have chosen to make a living out of something that they love and to assure that the Earth’s resources continue to be hospitable for the animals and are available to citizens to enjoy for years to come.

The choice to serve the public is not one to be taken lightly. The challenges included in just the training alone will eliminate those who do not truly desire to become an officer. Not only is the brutal, mid-summer heat of Florida enough to make some want to quit, the amount of “book-learning” compressed into 7 months is just as daunting. The recruits must pass 13 academic tests with a passing grade for each one. A failing grade on any test will eliminate a recruit from the program. In addition, recruits must demonstrate proficiency in physical fitness, defense tactics and driving, marksmanship, and even alligator handling, along with an aptitude for leadership.

Sitting in the audience at the graduation for these recruits, you can instantly see their determination and pride in becoming an FWC officer. Their sense of accomplishment was definitely earned, as their rigorous training and personal sacrifice could attest to. Their tenacity and desire to serve make them well qualified to become a state officer. The program screens for the best of the best and has successfully found 34 officers willing and certainly able to “patrol, protect, and preserve”.

Making a Cast (Beginner)

Sun, 12 Aug 2007 19:58:00 -0400

For the majority of us, casting comes as second nature. However, we all had to learn how to cast a fishing reel from somewhere. Geared more towards the novice angler, we'll discuss how to cast a basic reel.

Because they are simpler to use and are less intimidating to the novice angler, I recommend starting with a spincast rod and reel. We are more concerned with learning how to cast and do not need to overcomplicate things with tangled lines and other mishaps.

Making a cast with a spincasting rod and reel

Place your thumb on the push-button and hold it in.
Still holding in the button, bend your elbow and point the rod tip behind you. Keep your elbow near your side.
Release the button as you cast the rod forward.

After a couple of practice casts, you'll begin to feel more comfortable with your casting. To practice accuracy, purchase a practice-casting plug and practice casting into a bucket or something in the backyard.

If you are teaching a someone how to cast, the most important thing to remember is to be patient. You do not want to ruin a first time experience by getting frustrated at the person you are teaching. Keep your patience and be supportive, pretty soon youll have a new fishing partner.

What type of fishing license is required for brackish water?

Thu, 26 Jul 2007 21:27:00 -0400

In many locations there are areas where the freshwater and saltwater come together. Usually occurring in estuaries or river mouths, brackish water can hold many different types of fish. What is unclear however, is what type of license to do I need to fish in brackish water.

The answer to that question all depends on the species you are targeting. When fishing in brackish water, and targeting spotted seatrout, red drum, snook, or American shad, you will need to have a saltwater fishing license. On the other hand, targeting freshwater fish such as a largemouth bass in brackish water will require a freshwater fishing license. You should not or attempt to possess any saltwater fish if you do not have a saltwater fishing license. Likewise, you should not take a freshwater fish without a freshwater fishing license.

As always, you are responsible for learning fishing regulations for your state

Big Bass on a Small Worm

Wed, 13 Jun 2007 19:25:00 -0400

Searching for that one lure that won’t let you down? Growing up in Florida I’ve tried fishing many types of worms. If it was on the wall at a bait shop, I’ve tried it. And while these baits were known to produce fish, nothing gave me consistent results like the Gary Yamamoto 5’’ Yamasenko.

Gary Yamamoto baits are extremely soft and versatile in the ways it can be used. My preferred color is black with no flake. I have used other colors, but always get great results with black even in really clear lakes For the set up, I used a 1/0 or 2/0 lazar sharp worm hook rigged weedless. Having a weedless setup allows you to get into the weeds where these big fish are preying on minnows and bream. For an extra advantage, I suggest using a rattle in the head or tip of the worm.

Gary Yamamoto 5’’ Yamasenko

There are a lot of different rigging methods so choose the one your most comfortable fishing. For fishing the basic weed less Carolina rig or Texas rig, here are a couple of tips when ready to fish. Most importantly, you must consider the body of water your fishing. If the there is a breeze blowing in a consistent heading, you would want to fish the shore in the direction the wind is blowing. Bait fish feed on zoo plankton and phytoplankton. These organisms drift with the flow of water, so naturally if the wind is blowing towards a certain shoreline, that’s where the bait fish will congregate. Once you have determined where you want to fish, cast your bait towards the nearest structure or weed bed. Let the bait sink to the bottom before tightening your line. Now give the lure a couple of jerks to let the fish feel the vibration from the rattle. By now, you may have hooked up with a bass, if not, continue to make little jerks to the worm, tighten the line and repeat. I hope this worm helps you catch more bass.

Severe Weather

Fri, 11 May 2007 17:55:00 -0400

When severe weather approaches, the last thing you need is to be caught out in the boat. Whether you are in blue water, or on the pond, the dangers of being out in a storm are prevalant. The choices you make when out in a storm can be a matter of life and death.

There are many conditiions that should be monitored when you are out in a boat. The weather, especially in Florida, can change in a matter of minutes. By paying attention to the weather, you may be able to detremine if a storm is approaching. Some good indicatiors are changes in wind direction, and darkening skies. One should also have a HF radio onboard as well. NOAA broadcasts weather information over the radio through the following frequencies:

162.400 MHz
162.425 MHz
162.450 MHz
162.475 MHz
162.500 MHz
162.525 MHz
162.550 MHz

In any circumstance, preparation is key. By having a plan of action, and the required boating equipment on a vessel, your chances of survival is increase dramatically. All boaters need to have enough personal floatation devices (PFD) for everybody onboard the vessel. Have you VHF radio available to listen to NOAA's weather information, which includes advisories and warnings.

In addition to listening to your radio for any weather updates, make sure you are aware of any weather changes in your area. Wind changes, darkening clouds, the sounds of distant thunder, and choppy seas are all good indicators of an approaching storm. You can get a rough estimate of the distance (in miles) of the storm by counting, one-one thousand, two-one thousand, etc.

As the storm is approaching you are going to have to make a decision. Do you ride out the storm or head inshore? It is advised that you head to the nearest shore if a storm is approaching, but this is not always be an option. The only other option is to ride out the storm.

Riding out a storm can be a scary experience. The waters are churning, the waves are crashing, and lightning is striking all around. Everybody on the vessel needs to be wearing a personal floatation device (PFD). Prepare the vessel for the storm by closing all hatches, windows, and doors to avoid any water from entering inside any compartments. With metal being a conductor of electricity, stay away from any metal objects. Also, if possible, make yourself the lowest object on the vessel to avoid being struck lightning.

Catch and Release Techniques

Wed, 09 May 2007 20:28:00 -0400

Handling a fish may seem like a simple task, however, depending on your methods of doing this could determine life or death for the fish. Physiological stress and exhaustion can take a serious toll on a fish's ability to recover. As more people are enjoying fishing, catch and release has become increasingly important. The following techniques can increase a fishes chances of survival

Choose the correct tackle:

Fighting a fish to the point of exhaustion depletes a fishes energy, resulting in a change in its bodys metabolism. By using appropriate line strength, rod and reels, etc. and bringing the fish in as soon as possible can increase its chance of survival.

Hooks:

Artificial baits are usually in motion, so a fish usually will not have a chance to swallow it before the hook is set. Most of the time, live baits are swallow by the fish before the hook is set. Setting the hook after the bait is swallow is commonly referred to as, "gut hooking". If you do "gut hook" a fish, you can take measures minimize the damage already caused. Research has shown that rather than trying to remove the hook from the fish is to cut the line. Encapsulating is the healing process of tissue covering the hook. Even if the hook is left in the fish, some hooks today are less toxic and capable of being dissolved. Circle hooks are preferred because they reduce the chances of gut hooking and increase your hookup ratio.

Gaffs:

Gaffs are used to bring fish into the boat. Never gaff a fish if you do not plan on keeping the it. Nets are stronger these days, and are capable of releasing a fish unharmed.

Quickly return to the water:

Many times you will see pictures in magazines or on the televsion of people hoisting a large fish out of the water by the lower jaw. Unknown to many, this can do ireperable damage to the fish. The lower jaw on a fish is called then, "isthmus" a cartilaginous bundle of ligaments connecting the head to the body. If the "isthmus" is damaged, the fish will not be able to eat, resulting in a slow death. Also, never lift a fish by the gills if you are not planning on keeping it. The gills are delicate structures used for breathing and special care should be taken to minimize damage.

Venting disented gas bladders:

Most fish caught from very deep water may need to be "vented" before releasing. As the fish is pulled from the deep waters, the change in pressure may cause the swim bladder to bulge outward. You may have seen this where the bladder is bulging out of the fish's mouth. The swim bladder gives the fish bouyancy which helps the fish conserve energy. To properly "vent" a fish, you can use a venting device which is like a needle that will release the trapped air.

Catch and Release Guidelines

Wet your hands or use a towel before handling fish. Most fish have a mucus layer covering their body which helps prevent infection. By wetting your hands you leave the "slime" on the fish.
Don't let the fish take your bait before setting the hook. Letting a fish swim off with the bait increases the probablity that it will swallow it. When you set a hook after the fish as swallowed the bait, you end up "gut hooking" the fish. Gut hooking causes damage to the fish's internal organs.
It is critical to get the fish back into the water as quickly as possible. Stronger tackle and heavier lines allow you to land the fish rapidly. Landing the fish more rapidly is safer and will less likely cause any complications affecting survival after the fish is released.
When reviving a fish, holding onto the tail and move the fish back and forth in the water. This technique will run water through the gills of the fish letting oxygen back into its blood. Take a picture of the fish in the water and release it.
When possible, leave the fish in the water when removing the hook.
Decide whether you are going to keep the fish before you take it from the water. Never take a fish from your live well to replace with another. Once released from the live well, the chances of survival are slim.
Use a de-hooking device to remove a hook from a fish. These tools will reduce the damage that may be caused by trying to remove the hook by hand.

Vessel Registration and Title Requirements

Tue, 24 Apr 2007 13:59:00 -0400

Registration requirements vary from state to state. In Florida, you are required to register and title your vessel to operate a boat on public waters. The exceptions to this requirement are:

Non-motor powered Vessels less than 16' in length (this includes a trolling motor).
Vessels used exclusively on private ponds or lakes.

Registration Decals

Once your boat has been registered, you will receive your vessel registration along with a registration decal. The registration decal must be placed on the vessel as well as your vesssel number. Whether you choose to buy decals or paint them on the side, you are responsible for the vessel numbers The vessel numbers must be within 6" of the registration decal. Requirements for decal placement include:

Registration decal must be placed on the port side of the vessel.
Decals either be painted, or sticker.
Numbers must be at least 3" high in bold, block letters.
Each number must be seperated by hyphen or space. If seperating numbers with a space, remember to space them apart the equivalent of one letter. i.e. FL 1234 5A or FL-1234-5A.

Vessel registrations are valid for one year and expire the last day of the month prior to the owners birth month.

Title requirements

The Certificate of Title proves your ownership of the vessel. All vessels are required to have a certificate of title. Exceptions include:

Non-motor powered Vessels less than 16' in length (this includes a trolling motor),
Vessels used exclusively on private ponds or lakes.

Storing your vessel

Tue, 24 Apr 2007 13:58:00 -0400

When storing your vessel for long periods of time, make sure you keep it covered. The sun's ultaviolet rays can wreak havoc on the exterior of a boat. Storing your boat under cover can minimize the damage. Also, long periods of unuse can cause the trailer tires to dry rot. By removing the tires and placing the trailer on blocks, you can extend the life of the tires.

Oooo...you smell!

Fri, 20 Apr 2007 20:35:00 -0400

Nares, or paired nostrils, in a fish are used to detect odors in the water. These nostrils can be very sensitive to smell so it is a good idea for an angler to remove any scents from their hands before handling a lure, bait, or line. The oils from your skin, gasoline, sunscreen, and even that turkey sandwich can leave a scent on your hands that can be picked up by a fish. By washing your hands with scentless soap, you can wash away that smell and have a better chance of not being detected. If only you're fishing buddy didn't smell so bad...

Ive been slimed!

Thu, 19 Apr 2007 19:44:00 -0400

Most fish are covered with a mucus layer that helps protect them from infections. However, this "slime", as it is referred to, doesn't do anything for the angler but make a mess. To keep the fish "slime" on the fish, it is recommended to wet your hands before handling a fish. Doing so will keep the "slime" off your hands and on the fish.

Have an extra spool handy

Wed, 11 Apr 2007 21:50:00 -0400

If you have one, carry an extra spool with different line. The versatility of the spinning reel allow you to switch out your line without a problem. As an example, let's say your fighting a fish on 10 lb test and he gets away. Switch to your backup spool with 12 lb test and make another attempt on the fish you just lost. Whether you spool to a heavier or lighter test, it takes less than a minute to switch out your spool.

How to Find Bass

Wed, 11 Apr 2007 20:38:00 -0400

Perhaps one of the most important parts of bass fishing is actually finding the fish. Once you locate the fish, half the battle is won. In order to find bass, you need to know where bass like to hang out. Bass are often found in and around underwater shelter, whether it's fallen trees, rocks, sign posts, boat docks or dense weeds. Also, bass tend to prefer ledges, where there is a steep drop-off, coves, and sandy areas. Many lakes, actually have man-made cover underwater designed to attract bass. They are usually made from rocks or dead trees. In order to find these areas, a topographical map charting the geographical contours of the lake, can prove to be an invaluable tool. Also, ask local fishermen, tackle shop owners, and rangers who are familiar with the lake, where they have had success.

Fishing in and around these structures, can be frustrating, as it's difficult to really work a lure down into many of these areas. Ask your local tackle shop for lures and jigs, specially designed to penetrate these bass shelters. Also, fishing the heavily weeded areas and grassy-bottom parts of the lake, can cause a lot of snags. Bass are not fooled by a lure covered in grass. Try using a weedless hook, or bury the tip of the hook inside your rubber jigs. That way they will cruise right through the weeds and moss without hanging up.

Once you have located the bass, even if it is just a few, generally, there are many more in the vicinity. Bass tend to frequently return to these spots, so it also can be helpful to keep a diary of where you found the bass. You can note your exact position using a geographical positioning system (GPS) or if you don't have a GPS, just triangulate your position with landlocked reference points. Return to these spots year after year, but keep in mind that bass have seasonal patterns, so don't expect to always find the fish in the same spot through out the year. During their spawning season, for instance, look for the bass to move into the shallower areas where the water tends to be a few degrees warmer. Also, the bass like to create their nests in sandy areas or in small pebbles. The bass can appear to be easy targets when they are in the shallows, near the shore, but their mind is usually concentrating on protecting their eggs, so they may not be as easy to catch as you might expect. Often times they chase a lure when they are spawning, but it is just to get it away from their nest, and not to actually feed.

Without a knowledge of the underwater sheltered areas, bass can still be easy to find during their heavy feeding times. Although bass love minnows, they are often top feeders, and rise out of the water. During the early morning and late evening, bass lakes come to life as the surface of the water begins to boil with their movement. This is perhaps the best time to fish for bass. After all, why not fish when they are feeding? This is a good time to try using a top-water lure, with a lot of movement. This action really catches their attention.

The importance of casting and boat positioning

Wed, 11 Apr 2007 20:38:00 -0400

Targeting your casts and positioning yourself correctly can make a very large difference in your success as an angler. Obviously, you’ll have better luck catching fish if you can sneak up on them. As soon as fish are aware of your presence, they are put on the defensive, and are less likely to strike. So, in order to avoid spooking the fish, know the conditions so that you can predict where the fish will be hanging before you pass through the best spots, ruining them.

Also, if you have an understanding of the seasonal habits of bass, then you can predict where they could be hanging, due to water temperature, cloud cover, wind, current, etc. For instance, bass tend to hang lower in the grass and sheltered areas when the water is cooler’ like in the morning, rising closer to the surface as the water temperature rises during the day. However, in order to protect their eyesight, they will often be found in the shaded areas when the bright sun is shining.

Knowing this, you can back off a little, and cast from further away when you think that the fish may be hanging near the surface, where they can be easily scared. Always be conscious of where your shadows fall. They can scare the fish just as much. Try to position yourself so that the sun is on the far side of the fish you are trying to cast to. This way, your shadows will fall behind you. If the sun glare makes it difficult to see the water, try using a pair of polarized sunglasses. They will cut out most of the glare and even allow you to see the fish in the water.

Another way to avoid have the fish spot you, is by positioning yourself so that you are casting into the wind. Usually, anglers try to cast with the wind, but this presents several problems. First, the fish tend to point their heads toward the wind so that they can see any approaching food, being carried by the current. So if you are on the other side, they won’t be looking in your direction. Second, the fish are looking for the food to be carried toward them with the natural flow of the water. It appears to be more realistic if you cast from behind them and bring the bait or lure toward the fish. They are not easily fooled, and if the food source is moving into the wind, it just doesn’t appear to be natural, and they won’t strike.

Next, before you cast, consider where the largest fish will be, analyzing the brush, cover, slope of the land etc. Target your casts to that area first. Don’t try to work across an area, because chances are, you’re first few casts will alert the larger, wiser fish to your presence and put them on the defensive. If you analyze the area before casting, and then hit the best spot first, you’ll improve your chances at surprising, and catching the large fish.

How To Replace Your Fishing Line

Wed, 11 Apr 2007 20:38:00 -0400

Now that you have learned what to look for in a new rod, you're ready to attach a reel and tie on some new line. If your reel is not new, then you must first remove the old line. After that, feed the new line from the tip of the pole down through the eyelets and tie the line around the reel. Note that it always pays to buy the highest quality line. Cheaper line has a tendency to coil up and cause a lot of knots. If your reel is a closed reel, slide a pencil through the center of the fishing line spool, and have someone else hold the spool to keep tension on the line as you begin to reel it in. Never place too much tension on the line as you are reeling it in or it can cause the line to stretch, twist and cause knots. If you have an open-faced reel, then just put the spool on the floor and let the reel keep the proper tension. Be sure to have the spool facing in the direction so that the line is feeding off of it in a counterclockwise manner. All you need to do, is let the line feed through your fingers as it goes on to the reel. Crank 20 times or so and then check to see if the line is twisting or not. If it is, try turning the spool of line over. Then continue reeling in the line until it fills the spool on the reel within 1/8 of an inch from the edge.

Periodically check your line to see if it is still in good shape. A good way to do this is to strip off a lot of line and then reel it in through your finger tips. This way you can feel if there are any tiny knicks or knots in the line. Over time, rocks and sticks in the water knick the line and cause these weak areas. Also, visually inspect the line as you are reeling it back in. Note that when stripping off a lot of line you run the risk of creating a rats nest out of your line. One way to avoid this is by tying your line on to another fishing reel and reeling it on to that one. Or, if you are fishing in a river, just use a floating bobber and let your line be taken downstream until you reel it back in. This way it won't get tangled. If you find some of these weak spots, either replace your line, if the knick is way down the line, or just cut the line at that point. If you cut off too much line, then you could have trouble casting long distances, as the line won't feed off the reel as smoothly. For this reason, it's wise to keep the spool on your reel full up to 1/8 of an inch from the edge. Since fishing line is cheap, as a precaution, replace your line every year. It's better to avoid having your line break just when you have caught that gigantic salmon, bass or catfish!

Don't forget, when stripping off your old line, clip it up in to tiny pieces and throw it away. Too many fishermen leave it on the shore to entangle the local wildlife.

Stowing your fishing rod and reel

Wed, 11 Apr 2007 20:38:00 -0400

If you're like me, you love fishing. And if you're like me, you have a fishing rod and reel, however, you don't have a truck which can pose a real problem for traveling. Unfortunately, my fishing pole is not the collapsable kind. So whenever I make long trips, I have to "jimmy" the 6' pole into my car. This introduces the risk of snagging upholstery, breaking your rod eyes, or catching your clothing.

The Friday bug bit me pretty early that afternoon as I left work packed and read for the lakes in Gainesville, FL around 1400. Knowing that there are many lakes along the way to stop and fish, I put on a nice 8" Bass Assassin worm ready to stop at a moments notice. The 1-1/2 drive from Jacksonville, FL to Gainesville, FL can get pretty exhausting to say the least. As I was stretching and repositioned in the car, my fishing hook snagged the right sleeve on my brand new shirt. My first instinct was to just rip the hook out, but I thought, why ruin a new shirt. So I decided to take off my shirt and wait until I could find something to remove the hook without completly ruining the shirt.

I found that the best way to remove a hook from your shirt is to cut the hook with a pair of pliers. If you were to hook your upholsetry, you are on your own. There may not be an easy way to remove a hook from your upholsetry, however, there may be some alternatives worth looking into. Reel covers can be used to cover and prevent damage to your reels. Plastic tubing is another simple way to avoid exposed hooks. By placing the tubing over the hook, you keep the hook from being exposed.

If you are travel a lot, but want to fish, I think a collaspeable fishing rod is the best way to go. Luckily, I had a spare shirt that day. However, I would rather have have snagged a 10lb bass than a 165lb Geek.

Wear polarized fishing glasses

Wed, 11 Apr 2007 20:38:00 -0400

Polarized glasses will improve your ability to sight fish as well as minimize eye damage. By reducing glare, polarized fishing glasses able you to see into the water. The harmful UV rays from the sun can also damage you eyes. Since many anglers spend hours on the water, polarized fishing glasses are a crucial element in minimizing that risk.

Fishing a frog

Wed, 11 Apr 2007 20:38:00 -0400

I'll put it short and sweet, The slower the better. You want to try and mimic a frogs movement, so using the retrieve-pause-retrieve method will give the frog that "swimming" motion you need. To ensure the fish has the bait, lower the rod tip and wait until you feel pressure on the rod before setting the hook. If you get to anxious, and you may end up with a frog coming at your head.